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CAMPERCARPORTS

RV carports: how to choose, size, and buy one

An RV carport is a small number of decisions made in the right order. Get the order right — structure, then material, then the clear opening, then how it is built — and the rest follows. This is the map, with each decision handed to the guide that covers it in full.

CamperCarports EditorialReviewed

"RV carport", "camper carport", "motorhome cover" and "RV port" all name the same thing: an open-sided (or partly enclosed) roofed structure that shelters a recreational vehicle. The words vary; the decisions do not. Below is the order those decisions are best made in, and where each is answered in full.

1. What kind of structure

The first fork is permanent versus portable. A permanent steel carport is the default for a full-size RV in real weather; a portable or fabric shelter is lighter, cheaper, and consumable, and suits smaller rigs, milder exposure, or a temporary need. From there the choices are open-sided versus enclosed or partly enclosed, and which roof style sheds water and debris the way your site needs.

2. What it is made of

For most owners the answer is steel, and the question that actually matters is how it is specified — gauge, leg height, and the frame geometry that sets the opening. Our guide to metal RV carports covers where steel, aluminium, and fabric each belong and why the advertised width is never the width you can use.

3. The clear opening it has to deliver

This is the decision that goes wrong most often, because a carport is advertised at its outer frame while your RV needs a usable opening inside it. Work the numbers in the Size Finder, which turns your measurements into a minimum and a comfortable target and itemises every allowance. The dimensional guides go deeper on each axis: how tall it needs to be — the one dimension where being wrong causes damage — how wide for access and slide-outs, and how long for the parked footprint. Measuring the rig itself is covered in how to measure your RV.

4. How it gets built

A structure can be professionally installed, bought as a kit and self-assembled, or built from scratch. A kit removes the labour line but not the site work, the foundation, or the permit; an RV-scale build is not a one-person weekend. What each route saves — and what it does not — is set out in the kits and DIY guide.

5. What it costs, and what it sits on

We publish no invented prices. What we can do is rank the choices that move a quote in what drives the cost, so you know which of your decisions are expensive before a single quote arrives. Below the structure sits the ground: anchoring and foundations are dictated by your surface, and the climate and drainage around it decide where a season of runoff goes.

6. Permits and verification, before you pay

We will not tell you whether you need a permit — but how to research it identifies the right authority and the questions that get a reliable answer. Finally, the specification checklist inside the Size Finder result — the printable buyer sheet — is the list of clear-opening, drawing, and responsibility questions to put to any supplier before you commit.

Sources and methodology

Editorial judgement

  • The ordering of the decisions — structure, then material, then clear opening, then build method, then cost, then permits and verification — is our own planning framework.
  • The judgement that permanent steel is the default for a full-size RV in real weather, with the burden of argument on the alternatives.
  • The selection of which subtopics belong to the core buying journey, and which guide is treated as canonical for each.

This page cites no external source. Everything above is reasoning from how these structures and vehicles are built, or our own judgement, and is presented as such. Where we later hold verified, dated sources, they will appear here with the date they were checked.

Reviewed . Corrections are welcome and are recorded publicly — see corrections and research methodology.